If
you ever find yourself on the island of Oahu, there are the standard
tourist stops: Waikiki Beach, snorkeling at Hanauma Bay, hiking Diamond
Head crater, and watching the surfers at North Shore. For the record,
my must-see/do while in Oahu list includes stops at the Pali Lookout,
Lanikai Beach, swimming &/or snorkeling at the lagoons in Ko’olina,
taking the scenic coastline drive from Waimanalo to Hawai’i Kai, and
indulging in baked goods from Napoleon’s Bakery (which are in every
Zippy’s restaurant; I recommend the Long John- a custard-filled
elongated donut topped with powdered sugar- and the Haupia Cake- a
coconut creme cake that tastes as good as it sounds). For the visiting
golfer, you might be surprised to hear that Oahu doesn’t have anything
exciting to offer. In fact, golf courses on Oahu have a reputation of
being crowded, over-priced (if you are lacking a Hawai’i state-issued
ID), and poorly maintained. Golfers coming from the mainland will have
to adjust to the different grasses & will need to learn to read the
grain on the greens. Those used to playing in softer conditions will
marvel at how high that full swing lob wedge bounced in the air when it
landed on the green. If you’re lucky enough to play with a local,
you’ll also need to somehow cope with the fact that your greens fees are
$55 while your local playing partner pays $20. Now that I’ve sold you
on golfing on Oahu, here are the courses that I grew up playing (I’ll
start with the munis):
Ala Wai GC
This
is the busiest golf course in the world according to the Guinness Book
of World Records. As such, you may end up waiting a few hours just to
get on the course and then will inevitably be greeted by slow play. The
course is short and very flat, while the greens can be sneaky fast
(especially when putting down grain). You’ll make a birdie or two, but
it will take you all day to play (there are stories of people showing up
at 7am only to wait until noon to get on the course and then not
getting off the course until 5:30pm).
Favorite
memory from Ala Wai: Seeing Michelle Wie play in person for the first
time. I watched her bomb a driver off of the first tee when she was
about 12 years old.
Pali GC
Nestled
at the base of the dramatic Ko’olau mountain range are 18 holes carved
out of the hilly rainforest. The views of the Ko’olaus are spectacular,
and from the higher parts of the course, there’s even a clear view of
Chinaman’s Hat in the distance. You’re bound to encounter some wildlife
on the course- mostly wild chickens & feral cats, but you’ll also
catch a glimpse of the occasional wild pig, mongoose, and peacock. Some
years ago on this course, an errant shot tragically struck and killed a
Hawaiian owl. While the fairways are lined with trees, these are some
of the widest fairways you’ll see this side of a links course. That
being said, in dry conditions, these are also some of the firmest
fairways and greens this side of a links course and the ball has a
tendency to bounce its way into trouble. Overall, the course conditions
aren’t very good, but the starters are friendly (I’m more than a little
biased, as I grew up playing the course and got to know the starters
over the years) and the upclose view of the Ko’olau mountains never gets
old. Furthermore, the course provides a good challenge. There’s
plenty of elevation change, a good mix of short and long par 3s, and
each of the par 5s also provide a unique challenge (two of them are
reachable, two of them are three-shot holes). Indeed, Pali has the
reputation of being by far the most difficult municipal course on the
island. The city just poured a bunch of money into sprucing up the
course, so even if you’ve played here before back when the conditions
were downright bad and swore you’d never come back, you should give this
course another try.
Favorite
memory from Pali: I’ve been playing this course since I first started
golfing, so there are too many memories to count. Of the thousands of
shots that I’ve hit on the course, one really stands out. One of the
few narrow holes on the course is the par 4 thirteenth hole. From the
tee box, it looks like a dogleg right with out-of-bounds up the entire
left side of the hole. Indeed, a straight shot goes through the fairway
and out of play, and the trees on the right side prevent me from
playing my draw. In other words, you pretty much have to hit a fade,
which is a shot that I don’t pull off with much consistency. It’s a
short hole that doesn’t require a driver, or even a 3-wood, but I can’t
tell you how many 3 -irons and 5-woods I’ve hooked out of play on that
tee shot. I remember playing by myself when I was in high school and
coming to the 13th tee. At the time, I was playing with an old
persimmon 5-wood. I visualized hitting a low bullet fade that started
at the left edge of the fairway and curved back to the middle. It was a
shot that I had never been able to execute, but I knew that it was the
shot I needed to play. The tee shot struck the sweet spot and screaming
off the clubface came that low bullet fade. I had finally done it- I
had hit the perfect shot. It was the first time I had picked out an
exact target with an exact shot shape and trajectory in mind and
executed it flawlessly. That one shot had a profound effect on my
confidence- it let me know that I was capable of playing at the next
level.
Ted Makalena GC
On
the west side of the island next to a very industrial port is Makalena.
This is a great course for beginners because it is wide open, short,
and flat as flat can be. The soil here is strange- almost like silt-
and they have a hard time growing grass on the stuff. Almost all of the
holes are straightforward with little elevation change. The front nine
offers extremely wide fairways, while things get slightly tighter on
the back nine. While the fairways are patchy, the greens are usually
pretty decent, so you can roll in some putts out here. Combine that
with some very short par 4s and a handful of reachable par 5s and you’ve
got yourself some birdies. Other than that, there’s not much to get
excited about.
Favorite
memory from Makalena: I played here when I came home from college one
summer. I showed up after the morning wave was well into the course,
and there was nobody around. I played the front 9 in about an hour and
hit the ball really well. When I added up my score after the 9th hole, I
had shot 4-under par, with four birdies and five pars. I could have
paid for another nine holes and played the back 9, but instead I put the
clubs in the trunk and drove home. I’m still not really sure why I
didn’t make the turn- it was probably out of fear of making a mess of
the back 9 and not breaking par for 18 holes (at the time, my best round
for 18 holes was even par).
Ewa Villages GC
In
a very residential neighborhood on the west side of the island is
arguably the best municipal on Oahu. The conditions at Ewa Villages are
much better than the other munis, and it’s a good track to boot.
There’s just the right amount of elevation change and a nice mix of
challenging and easy holes. The fairways are just right- they’re wide
enough for you to bomb you’re driver, but narrow enough to force you to
pick a target and play a shot. There are trees and hazards in all the
right places, and when the wind is blowing, it’s a pretty darn good test
of golf, as the longer holes are dead into the wind. Play it from the
forward tees, and it’s pretty easy. From the back tees on a windy day,
you’ll make your fair share of bogeys or worse. Unfortunately, everyone
knows about this little gem, so the place gets really crowded and
rounds here can take a while.
Favorite
memory from Ewa Villages: Accidentally hitting into the group in front
of us when they were 310 yards away (slightly downhill tee shot + a
sudden downwind gust + firm fairways = HUGE drives).
West Loch GC
In
the same general area as Ewa Villages is this short muni that features
lots of hazards and doglegs. It’s also extremely popular and can take
forever to play. I’ve only played here twice, but I remember the layout
being really funky (long walks between holes), play being really slow,
and some nice par 3s.
Favorite memory from West Loch: Watching a buddy of mine stripe a high
soft 4-iron to within a few feet of the cup on a par 3. Did I mention
it was his first round of golf in a year and a half? Yeah, he’s one of those guys.
Kahuku GC
Just
a handful of minutes down the road from the Turtle Bay Resort on the
North Shore is this hidden gem (there are even locals who’ve never heard
of this place) of a 9-hole links course. Kahuku Golf Course is a true
links course with very few trees, small greens, and fierce wind that
blows in off of the Pacific Ocean, whose white-sand shore abuts the east
side of the course. Shots that land in the fairway kick up a puff of
sand. When you inspect the fairway more closely, you see what causes
this- the fairways are comprised of clumps of grass with sand in between
them. The local rule that we always play by states that, provided you
are not in a hazard, you can place your ball on the nearest clump of
grass if you find your ball in a sandy spot. Indeed, this is an
authentic, old school links course. It’s like going back in time, when
the greens ran at about 6 on the stimp and it only took an hour and a
half to play 9 holes. There is no proshop and no snack bar. In fact, I
don’t think they even have golf carts. There’s just a shack that
houses the starter and a few porta potties. So load up your golf bag
with sunscreen, snacks, and a whole lot of water. Oh, and don’t forget
your camera as there are beautiful ocean views throughout the course.
Favorite memory from Kahuku: I’ve made three of my four holes-in-one on
this course, one of which came on the 310-yard par 4 fifth hole. I was
also 3-under through 14 holes when I walked off the course with my
buddy because he was too frustrated by his poor play to continue.
Public Courses (a step up from the munis)
Olomana GC
Tucked
away in a little corner between Kailua & Waimanalo is the golf
course where Michelle Wie learned how to play. This is a fun course
with a little bit of everything- elevation change, water hazards,
swirling winds, birdie holes, and holes where bogey is actually not a
bad score. While the conditions can be inconsistent (for whatever
reason, the bunkers here are always in terrible condition, but the
fairways and greens are pretty good), on the whole it’s a step up from
the munis. It’s also a very popular course and play can get really
backed up. The front nine is pretty straightforward, but things get a
little more challenging (and interesting) on the back nine. I’ve only
played the course a handful of times, but I’ve always enjoyed my rounds
here because it’s the type of course that rewards good shots.
Favorite memory from Olomana: Taking my first golf lesson from the
legendary Lloyd Nakama who offered almost no advice on my full swing,
but gave me invaluable advice on how to approach the short game. After
my 2nd lesson with Mr. Nakama I was frustrated by how little help he
offered with my full swing and I told my father that he should save his
money. It wasn’t until much later that I fully appreciated how
important Mr. Nakama’s advice was in improving my short game.
Leileihua GC
While
Pali & Kahuku have a lot more sentimental value because I’ve played
so many rounds there, Leileihua is my favorite “championship” course to
play on Oahu. Leileihua is a military course that is open to the
public. As such, if you are a civilian, you just might find yourself
waiting for a while to play as military players are prioritized. The
golf course is maintained at a level that makes all of the munis and
most other public courses on the island seem like goat tracks. It
doesn’t feel like you’re even on Oahu when you’re on the course, which
features fairways lined with tall mature pine trees. The temperature is
always at least 5 degrees cooler here than in Honolulu, and there are
no ocean or mountain views. What you will see are beautiful and
challenging golf holes. While the course is fairly flat, the elevation
changes on the course are significant enough to require an extra club or
two. Though there are several very short holes, on the whole the
course is sneaky long. The fairways are generous, but if you miss them,
the penalty can be quite severe. What I love about the course is how
well maintained the turf is both on and around the greens, which means
that you can still put up a decent score even if you’re missing greens.
Favorite memory of Leileihua: I played here with my father when I came
home from college one summer. I was struggling with my golf swing at
the time, hitting big hooks that put me in the left trees most of the
round. However, my short game was razor sharp. I probably only hit two
or three fairways and two or three greens that day, but I ended up
shooting 77 or 78. Upon adding up the scores my father turned to me and
said, “That’s the ugliest round in the seventies I’ve ever seen!”
Indeed, that was my college golfing career in a nutshell.